SANTA  FE  R.  R. 


OFF  THE 
BEATEN  PATH 


BANCROFT 


University  of  California  •  Berkeley 


For   additional   information   about   Southwest   scenic   attractions   consult 
following  publications,  issued  by  the  Santa  Fe  Railway: 

"  Old-New   Santa  Fe  and   Roundabout,"   '*  Haunts   of  Primitive   Man," 
"  Grand  Canyon  Outings,"  "  Petrified  Forest  of  Arizona." 

Free  copies  sent  on  request.    Ask  any  Santa  Fe  agent  about  round-trip 
excursion  fares  to  New  Mexico  and  Arizona. 

W.  J.  BLACK,  PasF.  Traffic  Mgr.,  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  Ry. 
1118  Railway  Exchange,  Chicago,  111. 


parn 


'in  Key  Mexico 
and  Artzo 


OFF    THE    BEATEN    PATH    IN    NEW    MEXICO    AND    ARIZONA 


This  is  both  the  oldest  and  the  newest 
region  in  the  United  States.  Here  the 
Spaniards  came  in  1540.  Before  that  tinv\ 
dating  back  a  thousand  years  or  more,  popu- 
lous Indian  pueblos  topped  the  heights. 
Both  the  Mexican  and  the  Indian  life — modi- 
fied, of  course — exists  to-day,  side  by  side 
with  that  of  the  up-to-date  American. 

A  mile  or  more  above  the  sea,  the  summer 
air  always  is  pure  and  cool. 

An  ideal  country  for  unusual  outings. 

TO  BEGIN  WITH. 

The  Santa  Fc  Railway  takes  you  through  the  Southwest 
Enchanted  Land.  From  car  windows  of  the  flying  train  you 
may  see  many  strange  sights.  Here  is  an  Indian  pueblo  of 
to-day,  peopled  by  a  brown  race  whose  ancestors  have  lived 
in  this  same  place  for  centuries.  Near  by  are  ruins  of  prehis- 
toric pueblos,  aged, thousands  of  years.  Over  yonder  is  a 
petrified  forest,  aeons  old.  Criss-crossing  the  plateau  are 
narrow  clefts  of  profound  depth.  Painted  deserts,  rainbow- 
colored,  delight  the  eye.  Great  pine  forests  clothe  the  higher 
altitudes.  The  plants  are  of  unfamiliar  species.  The  trees 
are  different  from  back  East.  Herds  of  cattle  and  flocks  of 
sheep  browse  on  the  succulent  grasses.  Cowboys  and  sheep 
herders  everywhere  are  in  evidence.  Sunset  and  afterglow 
take  on  a  new  meaning,  and  at  night  the  sky  is  alive  with  stars 
which  appear  almost  to  touch  the  earth. 

It  is  a  land  of  wide  spaces  and  brilliant  colors. 

If  you  stop  off  between  trains  at  some  station  en  route,  the 
close-at-hand  view  discloses  other  objects  of  interest.  You 
become  better  acquainted  with  this  new  environment.  A  day 
at  Laguna  and  Acoma  pueblos,  another  day  at  the  Petrified 
Forest  or  old  Santa  Fe,  two  or  three  days  at  Grand  Canyon  — 
they  are  well  worth  while. 

But,  to  get  at  the  real  heart  of  the  Southwest,  you  must 
leave  the  railway  behind  and  take  to  the  open  country.  If 
time  is  no  object,  and  you  like  to  rough  it,  engage  saddle  and 
pack  horses  for  a  long  camping  trip.  That's  the  leisurely 
way.  .Or,  if  in  more  of  a  hurry,  and  willing  to  pay  the  extra 
price,  hire  an  auto  and  compress  three  days  of  ordinary 
journeying  into  one.  Each  method  has  its  advantages.  Often 
the  two  can  be  combined. 

Very  good,  you  say ;  but  how  is  one  to  know  the  best  places 
to  visit,  time  required,  accommodations,  cost,  etc.? 

The  Santa  Fe  passenger  department  recently  has  had  an 
expert  investigation  made  of  facilities  offered  by  local  con- 
cerns, catering  to  this  class  of  travel.  Nearly  every  trip  men- 
tioned has  been  taken  by  an  experienced  Santa  Fe  employe, 
with  instructions  to  report  facts  as  they  are.  Those  not  thus 
personally  tried  out  have  been  carefully  looked  into.  While 
not  guaranteeing  accommodations  noted  herein,  they  are  be- 
lieved to  be  accurately  stated. 


You  are  invited  to  try  one  of  these  trips.  Only  by  getting 
off  the  beaten  path  can  you  really  know  the  Southwest.  And 
you  will  have  had  a  unique  outing  of  the  pioneer  sort. 

The  best  times  to  go  are  late  spring,  summer  and  early  fall  — 
say  from  May  to  October,  inclusive.  Yet  winter  has  its  own 
charm,  even  if  one  can  not  move  around  so  freely. 

TRIPS  ROUNDABOUT  OLD  SANTA  FE. 

In  a  setting  that  antedates  Babylon,  and  under  Moorish 
skies,  this  bit  of  the  Orient  called  La  Ciudad  Real  de  la  Santa 
Fe  de  San  Francisco  (the  True  City  of  the  Holy  Faith  of  St. 
Francis),  located  out  in  the  New  Mexico  Rockies,  invites  the 
traveler  searching  for  new  scenes,  confident  that  the  city  itself 
and  the  region  roundabout  will  well  repay  a  long  sojourn. 

Santa  Fe  was  founded  in  1606  by  one  of  the  Spanish  con- 
quistadores  on  the  ruins  of  two  Indian  pueblos,  in  a  land 
where  once  flourished  the  prehistoric  cliff  dwellers. 

The  Santa  Fe  of  to-day  is  part  old,  part  new.  It  is  a  city 
of  about  8,000  inhabitants,  a  mixture  of  Americans  and  Mex- 
icans, with  a  few  Indians  from  the  neighboring  pueblos.  It 
lies  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the  sea,  on  a  plateau 
rimmed  by  peaks  13,000  feet  high.  It  is  the  immemorial  cap- 
ital of  New  Mexico  and  reached  by  a  short  branch  line  of 
the  Santa  Fe  Railway  from  Lamy.  Two  other  railroads  also 
link  it  with  the  outside  world. 

Here  the  visitor  may  see  the  venerable  Plaza,  where  Onate 
first  set  up  the  banner  of  Spain,  and  where  General  Kearny 
planted  the  Stars  and  Stripes  in  1846.  The  Old  Palace  is  the 
most  ancient  governmental  building  in  the  United  States.  The 
Cathedral  was  begun  in  1612.  San  Miguel  Church  dates  back 
to  1607.  A  monument  on  the  plaza  commemorates  the  ter- 
minus of  the  old  Santa  Fe  Trail. 

Everywhere  are  narrow,  winding  streets,  lined  with  low 
adobes,  where  live  dark-skinned  Mexicans,  descendants  of 
the  Spaniards  who  once  owned  all  this  land.  These  soft- 
voiced  people  closely  affiliate  with  the  gringo.  They  frankly 
enjoy  the  new  ways  —  autos,  electric  lights,  and  the  like  — 
while  clinging  to  old  customs  in  dress  and  religion.  They  are 
loyal  American  citizens  and  good  neighbors. 

The  more  modern  sections  have  up-to-date  hotels,  business 
blocks,  schools  and  churches.  Public  buildings  are  many  and 
costly.  Most  of  the  private  residences  recently  built  conform 
to  what  is  known  as  the  Santa  Fe  type  of  architecture  —  one- 
story  adobes.  In  coming  here  the  stranger  finds  every  com- 
fort alongside  absolutely  primitive  surroundings.  That's  the 
chief  charm  of  this  remarkable  little  city. 

This  part  of  New  Mexico  is  a  sunny  land,  high  and  dry, 
with  air  that  invigorates  —  an  ideal  place  for  outdoor  life. 
Late  spring,  summer  and  early  fall  are  the  best  seasons  to 
go  there. 

Santa  Fe  is  the  center  of  what  has  been  called  the  most 
wonderful  fifty-mile-square  in  America.  Where  else  can  you, 
in  a  day's  journey,  reach  Indian  pueblos  and  Mexican  villages, 
cliff  dwellings  and  prehistoric  ruins,  the  haunts  of  the  bear 
and  mountain  lion,  snow-clad  peaks  and  trout  streams? 
Where  else  can  you  motor  like  the  wind  over  smooth  high- 
ways, or  follow  the  hounds  after  wild  game,  or  take  long  camp- 
ing trips  on  horseback  with  pack  outfit?  Where  else  is  the 
Wild  West  wilder  or  the  Romantic  West  more  romantic? 
Where  can  you  see  more  strange  sights  in  a  given  time? 

Fortunately  the  way  of  the  traveler  is  made  easy.  The 
Rocky  Mountain  Camp  Co.,  E.  J.  Ward,  Manager,  Santa  Fe, 
N.  M.,  cares  for  those  who  wish  to  fare  forth  into  the  coun- 
try roundabout.  A  condensed  description  of  service  provided 
follows : 


Map    of 

TOURIST    REGION 
Vicinity  of  Santa  Fe,  N.M. 

_Red  lines  indicate  principal 
Outing  trips  by  auto^eam  and  saddle  pack 


•».,«-  Cffttro  Off. 


NORTH 


SIDE  TRIPS  BY   AUTO. 


The  Rocky  Mountain  Camp  Co.,  Erwin  J.  Ward,  Mgr., 
Santa  Fe,  N.  M.,  announces  the  following  trips  by  auto  or 
saddle  horses  and  pack,  Nos.  i  to  14,  inclusive : 

No.  1. —  Santa  Fe  to  Frijoles  Canyon. 

Go  and  return  one  day.     Distance,  72  miles,  round  trip. 

Route,  via  Ayua  Fria  and  Buck-man. 

Fare,  $30  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur, 
or  $26  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 
Only  light  baggage  carried. 

Meals,  extra  for  party,  noon  lunch  at  Abbott's  ranch,  76  cents  and  $1 
each. 

Regular  daily  auto  trips  during  tourist  season  (June  to  September, 
inclusive),  fare  $6.26  per  passenger;  at  other  times  by  special  arrange- 
ment. 

NOTE. —  For  stay  over  night,  returning  to  Santa  Fe  next  day,  making 
a  two  days'  trip,  the  additional  auto  fare  for  entire  party  will  be  $17.50 
for  six-passenger  car  and  $15.00  for  four-passenger  car,  plus  lodging 
and  meals  at  Abbott's,  $2.50  each  person. 

The  Rio  Grande  crossing  at  Buckman  bridge,  the  three- 
mile  crawl  up  the  old  lumber  road  to  Pajarito  Plateau,  also 
the  ride  in  and  out  of  Water  and  Ancho  canyons,  are  out  of 
the  ordinary. 

The  Canyon  of  El  Rito  de  los  Frijoles  (Little  River  of  the 
Beans)  is  one  of  several  short  gorges  that  deeply  cut  the 
high  Pajarito  Plateau  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Rip  Grande. 
Noted  for  its  remarkable  ruins  of  fifteen  prehistoric  villages 
on  the  floor  of  the  valley ;  of  these  the  most  important  is 
Tyu-onyi,  an  old  community  house  of  several  hundred  rooms. 
The  Ceremonial  Cave,  150  feet  above  the  stream,  and  reached 
by  ladders,  is  one  of  the  hundreds  of  side  wall  caves  in  the 
volcanic  tufa. 

Judge  Abbott's  ranch  resort,  House  of  the  Ten  Alders,  pro- 
vides home  comforts. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  canyon  the  Rito  leaps  over  ledges 
almost  160  feet  high,  forming  two  exquisite  waterfalls. 

Because  of  the  archaelogical  features  of  the  Rito  de  los 
Frijoles,  the  United  States  Government  has  set  it  aside  as  the 
Bandelier  National  Monument.  In  the  caves  of  the  Rito  have 
been  found  some  two  hundred  frescoes. 


No.  2. —  Santa  Fe  to  Tschiregei- Tsankawi  and 
_, Otowi.     


Round  trip  in  one  day.     Distance,  70  miles,  round  trip. 

Route,  via  Agua  Fria  and  Buckman. 

Fare,  $30  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur, 
or  $25  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 

Meals,  extra  for  party;  noon  basket  lunch,  50  cents  each.  Light  bag- 
gage only. 

These  three,  large  communal  ruins  are  in  Pajarito  Park,  on 
west  bank  of  Rio  Grande.  Tschirege  is  the  nearest,  being  27 
miles  from  Santa  Fe  by  road  and  located  on  Ramon  Vigil 
grant.  Tsankawi  and  Otowi  are  included  in  the  Bandelier 
National  Monument.  At  Otowi  important  excavations  re- 
cently have  been  made  by  the  Commercial  Museum  of  Phila- 
delphia. 

Tschirege  stands  on  the  point  of  a  mesa  whose  cliff  faces 
contain  rock-hewn  caves.  It  includes  the  ruins  of  a  com- 
munal house  of  a  thousand  rooms,  and  is  almost  inaccessible 
except  by  the  Stairway  of  the  Plumed  Serpent.  This  ruin 
was  one  of  the  first  to  be  partly  excavated  by  Dr.  Edgar  L. 
Hewett,  of  the  School  of  American  Research.  It  is  on  the 
Ramon  Vigil  grant  of  30,000  acres,  owned  by  a  group  of 
Detroit  automobile  manufacturers,  who  maintain  a  clubhouse. 

Otowi,  too,  was  first  excavated  by  Dr.  Hewett  and  the  col- 
lection taken  from  it  is  one  of  the  priceless  heritages  of  the 
National  Museum  at  Washington,  D.  C.  Reputed  by  tradi- 
tion to  be  the  ancestral  home,  twelve  centuries  ago,  of  a  clan 
of  the  present  Tewa  Indians,  who  now  live  only  eight  miles 
away.  Here  may  be  seen  the  broken  food-bowls,  children's 
plaything's  of  stone  and  pottery,  and  stone  implements  of  the 
men,  scattered  around  the  excavated,  crumbled  homes  of  a 
once  proud,  virile  race. 

Not  far  from  Otowi  is  Los  Alamos  Ranch  Outdoor  School 
for  Boys,  conducted  by  Mr.  Ashley  Pond,  where  boys  twelve 
to  sixteen  years  old  are  given  the  benefits  of  outdoor  life 
while  getting  an  education. 

Tsankawi  is  one  of  the  most  spectacular  of  the  community 
houses,  located  on  a  high  mesa  reached  by  trails  worn  deeply 
into  the  rock.  At  all  three  sites,  the  sides  of  the  cliffs  are 
lined  with  nntural  and  made  caves,  occupied  in  pre-Spanish 
times  by  the  Cliff  Dwellers. 


Ancient  Kiva  In  Ceremonial  Cave,  Frijoles  Canyon. 
7 


Prehistoric  Stone  Tents  at  Otowi. 
8 


No.  3. —  Santa  Fe  to  Tesuque,  San  Juan  and  Santa 
Clara. 


No.  4.—  Santa  Fe  to  Puye. 


Santa  C 
San  Juan 


Out  and  back  in  one  day.     Distance,  78  miles,  round  trip. 

Route,  going  via  Tesuque,  Pojoaque,  Santa  Cruz  and  Espanola;  return- 
ing via  San  lldefonso  and  Buckman. 

Fare,  $30  for  party  of  six  in  six-passenger  auto,  with  chauffeur,  or 
$25  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 

Meals,  extra  for  party;  noon  lunch  at  El  Onate  Hotel,  Espanola,  50 
cents  each.  Light  baggage  only. 

NOTE. — Ample  stops  at  Tesuque,  San  Juan,  Santa  Clara  and 
San  lldefonso  pueblos.  Only  short  stops  at  Santa  Cruz, 
Pojoaque  and  Buckman.  By  lengthening  trip  to  two  days, 
stopping  over  night  at  Espanola,  all  points  can  be  visited  more 
leisurely;  in  that  event,  extra  auto  fare  for  entire  party  will 
be  $17.50  for  six-passenger  car,  and  $15  for  four-passenger  car; 
extra  meals  and  lodging  at  Espanola,  each  person,  $2.50  or  $3. 

San  lldefonso  Indian  pueblo  (pop.  133)  lies  at  foot  of  Battle 
Mountain,  intersection  of  Rio  Grande  and  Pojoaque  Rivers, 
27  miles  by  road  northeast  of  Santa  Fe.  Inhabitants  make 
pottery ;  two  ceremonial  kivas,  also  old  church  with  ruins  of 
convent.  Important  fiestas  occur  January  23  and  September  6. 

The  old  pueblo  of  San  lldefonso  lies  on  other  side  of  Rio 
Grande.  In  revolution  of  1680  the  two  Franciscans  in  charge 
of  mission  were  killed  by  Indians  and  mission  destroyed.  San 
lldefonso  at  one  time  had  nearly  1,000  inhabitants. 

The  pueblo  of  Santa  Clara  (pop.  227),  five  miles  north  of 
San  lldefonso,  but  across  the  Rio  Grande,  is  noted  for  black 
pottery.  Santa  Clara  dance  is  held  August  12. 

Pojoaque  (pop.  15),  18  miles  north  of  Santa  Fe,  is  a  historic 
Indian  pueblo  now  mainly  occupied  by  Mexicans.  Principal 
fiesta  on  December  12. 

San  Juan  (pop.  381)  is  6  miles  north  of  Espanola.  The  tiny 
farms  belonging  to  the  Indian  villagers  are  well  kept.  On 
June  24,  St.  John's  Day,  occur  ceremonial  dances,  games  and 
foot-races. 

The  old  Indian  village  of  Tesuque  (pop.  77)  is  a  prehistoric 
pueblo ;  here  pottery  idols  are  made,  also  drums,  bows  and 
arrows,  etc. ;  fiesta  is  held  November  12.  Seat  of  mission  of 
San  Lorenzo,  established  by  Benavides.  The  pueblo  had  more 
than  500  inhabitants  as  late  as  1749. 

Santa  Clara  is  rich  in  traditions.     The  Tewa  name  means 

"  Where  the  wild  rosebushes  grow  near  the  water." 


There  and  back  in  one  day. 

Distance,  84  miles  round  trip,  direct,  or  88  miles  via  Santa  Clara. 

Route,  via  Tesuque  Pueblo,  Cuyamunque,  Pojoaque,  Santa  Cruz, 
Espanola  and  Santa  Clara. 

Fare,  $40  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur, 
or  $30  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 

Meals,  extra  for  party;  noon  lunch  at  El  Onate  Hotel,  Espanola, 
60  cents  each.  Light  baggage  only. 

NOTE. —  //  party  wishes  to  stay  over  night,  returning  to  Santa  Fe  next 
day,  making  a  two  days'  trip,  the  additional  auto  fare  for  entire  party 
will  be  $22.50,  for  six-passenger  car,  and  $17.50  for  four-passenger,  plus 
hotel  at  Espanola,  $2.50  or  $3  for  each  person. 

The  Puye  is  one  of  the  largest  of  the  prehistoric  communal 
dwellings,  having  had  some  1,600  rooms  in  its  prime.  The 
South  House  was  218  feet  long  and  80  feet  wide,  terraced  like 
Taos  and  contained  173  rooms  on  ground  floor.  Here  have 
been  held  summer  sessions  of  the  School  of  American  Re- 
search. Caves  and  shrines  all  are  well  preserved.  The  Puye 
settlement  had  a  great  quadrangle  on  the  mesa  top  —  four 
terraced  community  houses  set  around  a  court  —  and  cliff 
villages  near  the  top  of  the  talus. 

The  one-day  trip  also  permits  inspection  of  Santa  Clara 
Indian  pueblo.  To  adequately  see  all  points  of  interest,  two 
days  are  required. 

Puye  is  pointed  out  as  the  ancestral  home  of  the  Santa  Clara 
pueblos.  The  ruin  has  been  in  part  excavated  by  the  School 
of  American  Research,  and  the  choicest  types  of  its  ancient 
pottery  and  artifacts  are  on  exhibit  at  the  Museum  of  New 
Mexico  in  the  Palace  at  Santa  Fe.  The  location  of  Puye  is 
superb.  From  the  brow  of  the  cliff  the  eye  sweeps  as  far 
north  as  the  Taos  Mountains.  Directly  in  front  lies  the  val- 
ley of  the  Rio  Grande.  Just  beyond  runs  the  majestic  ram- 
part of  the  Blood  of  Christ  Range.  To  the  south,  the  eye 
reaches  almost  as  far  as  the  Staked  Plains.  The  west  is 
framed  by  the  deep  blue  of  the  Jetnez  Mountains. 

The  inhabitants  of  Santa  Clara  are  among  the  most  hos- 
pitable of  the  Rio  Grande  Valley  Indians. 

The  road  from  Espanola  to  the  Puye  or  from  Santa  Clara 
to  the  Puye  is  difficult  for  automobiles  at  present,  but  there 
is  promise  of  its  being  put  into  better  condition. 


Watching  San  Juan  Day  Races,  San  Juan  Pueblo. 
9 


Ruins  of  South  House,  Pure. 
1O 


No.  5. —  Santa  Fe  to  Tesuque,  Nambe  and  Chimayo. 


No.  6.—  Santa  Fe  to  Cochiti  and  Santo  Domingo. 


Hound  trip  in  one  day.     Distance,  64  miles  round  trip. 

Route,  via  Tesuque,  Nambe,  Escondttlo  and  Sanctuario. 

Fare,  $25  for  party  of  six  persons  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with 
thauffeur,  or  $20  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with 
thauffeur. 

Meals,  extra;  noon  lunch  at  Chimayo,  60  cents  each.  Light  baggage 
fnly. 

Chimayo  (pop.  250),  along  the  Santa  Cruz  River,  is  a 
Mexican  village  on  the  old  Taos  highway,  skirting  the  foot- 
hills. Noted  for  its  Chimayo  blankets,  woven  on  century-old 
foot  looms  by  native  Mexicans.  Close  by  is  Sanctuario,  the 
Lourdes  of  New  Mexico,  with  its  quaint  chapel,  where  many 
miraculous  cures  have  been  reported.  Not  far  distant  is  the 
campanile  of  another  church  ascribed  to  the  Penitentes.  The 
Sanctuario,  built  by  Bernardo  Abeyta  in  1816,  is  primitive  in 
its  architecture,  being  60  feet  in  length  by  24  in  width,  with 
massive  walls.  It  is  embellished  with  native  wood  carvings. 
Pilgrims  come  from  as  far  away  as  Colorado,  Arizona  and 
Mexico  to  worship  at  the  shrine. 

Nambe  (pop.  88)  is  an  Indian  village  on  Nambe  River 
famed  for  its  ceremonial  kiva.  This  ancient  kiva  is  open  to 
visitors.  A  few  miles  above  Nambe,  in  a  wild,  rocky  gorge, 
are  the  Nambe  Falls,  the  finest  waterfall  in  this  region.  An- 
nual fiesta  comes  on  the  fourth  of  October. 

Nambe  was  the  seat  of  one  of  the  earliest  Franciscan  mis- 
sions of  New  Mexico.  The  fine  old  church  was  destroyed  in 
the  Pueblo  Rebellion  and  afterwards  rebuilt  by  Gov.  Busta- 
mente  in  1729.  Later  it  was  modernized  and  is  now  used  as  a 
parish  church  for  infrequent  services. 

The  road  to  Chimayo  lies  through  sandstone  hills,  weirdly 
carved  into  fantastic  shapes.  It  is  a  picturesque  thorough- 
fare, with  a  few  steep  grades.  Between  Nambe  and  Chimayo, 
but  off  the  main  roads,  lies  a  park  of  grotesque  sandstone 
formations,  that  is  declared  by  travelers  to  equal  in  interest 
the  Garden  of  the  Gods  at  Manitou. 

Chimayo  is  one  of  the  historic  settlements  of  the  State. 
Here  the  Chimayo  Rebellion  had  its  inception.  Across  the 
river  from  Sanctuario  is  a  Presbyterian  mission  and  the  Chi- 
mayo plaza.  The  Chimayo  valley  is  noted  for  its  early  apri- 
cots and  apples. 


Round  trip  in  one  day.     Distance,  82  miles  round  trip. 

Route,  via  La  Bajada  Hill  and  Pena  Blanca,  along  El  Camino  Real. 

Fare,  $30  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur, 
or  $25  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 

Meals,  extra  for  party;  noon  lunch  at  Cochiti,  50  cents  each.  Light 
baggage  only. 

Cochiti  (pop.  237)  is  an  Indian  village,  located  on  west 
bank  of  the  Rio  Grande,  three  miles  north  of  Pena  Blanca. 
The  Cochiti  Dance  occurs  July  14,  in  honor  of  the  patron 
saint  of  the  pueblo.  The  chief  feature  of  this  ceremony  is 
the  "  tabla "  dance,  participated  in  by  two  divisions  of  forty 
persons  each.  A  decisive  battle  was  fought  in  1694  on  the 
heights  above  Cochiti. 

Near  the  village  is  the  Painted  Cave.  The  stone  pumas  of 
Potrero  de  Las  Vacas  likewise  are  famous.  The  pottery 
manufactured  here  simulates  animal  forms.  For  several 
months  Cochiti  was  the  temporary  home  of  Adolph  Bandelier, 
explorer  and  author  of  the  "  Delightmakers."  A  few  Mexican 
families  have  lived  in  this  village  since  1828. 

Santo  Domingo  (pop.  817)  is  the  largest  of  the  lower  Rio 
Grande  Indian  pueblos.  It  is  situated  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Galisteo.  Antique  kivas  may  be  seen,  but  the  present 
church  is  comparatively  modern,  the  old  mission  church  hav- 
ing been  washed  away  by  destructive  floods.  The  people  here 
are  fine  specimens  of  our  First  Americans,  tall  and  shapely, 
with  intelligent  faces.  They  are  well  worth  studying. 

The  Cochitis  point  to  Rito  de  los  Frijoles  as  their  ancestral 
home.  From  the  Rito  south  as  far  as  the  present  Cochiti  are 
a  number  of  communal  ruins  which  were  successively  occu- 
pied by  the  Cochiti  clans.  The  clan  life  of  this  and  the  neigh- 
boring pueblos  is  reminiscent  of  old  Scotland,  though  more 
involved. 

On  the  road  to  Cochiti  is  the  quaint  settlement  of  Pena 
Blanca,  with  its  Franciscan  convent,  old  chapel  and  schools. 
The  road  also  runs  over  La  Bajada  Hill,  celebrated  for  its 
switchbacks  and  tremendous  vistas  of  the  Rio  Grande  Valley. 
At  the  foot  of  this  hill  lies  the  village  of  La  Bajada ;  here 
are  the  ruins  of  an  old  inn  or  roadhouse,  and  across  the 
Santa  Fe  River  are  the  partly  excavated  ruins  of  Tsinatay. 


Sanctuario,  the  Lourdes  of  New  Mexico. 
11 


Plaza  of  Santo  Domingo  During  Annual  August  Ceremony. 
12 


No.  7. —  Santa  Fe  to  San  Cristobal  Ruins  and 
Pankey  Ranch. 


No.  8. —  Santa  Fe  to  Pecos  Ruins  and  Valley  Ranch. 


A  journey  of  one  day.     Distance,  58  miles,  round  trip. 

Route,  via  Arroyo  Hondo,  Piedras  Negras  Canyon,  Apache  Canyon, 
Lamy  station  and  Pankey  Ranch. 

Fare,  $26  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur, 
or  $20  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 

Meals,  extra;  noon  basket  lunch,  50  cents  each  person.  Light  baggage 
only. 

The  San  Cristobal  Ruins,  and  groups  of  prehistoric  mounds 
in  vicinity,  were  excavated  in  recent  years. 

San  Cristobal  was  known  as  Yam-p'ham-ba  by  the  native 
Indians,  which  means  "  narrow  belt  of  willows."  The  pueblo 
—  one  of  several  in  this  district  —  was  located  on  one  side 
of  San  Cristobal  arroyo.  The  village  proper  was  built  of 
stone  and  the  walls  were  quite  thick.  This  probably  belongs 
to  the  older  class  of  pueblo  structures,  i.  e.,  a  compact,  one- 
story  building  of  many  rooms. 

The  history  of  this  settlement  is  identical  with  that  of  San 
Lazaro,  the  ruins  of  which  lie  six  miles  west  of  Galisteo,  on 
the  eastern  slope  of  El  Chorro  arroyo.  San  Cristobal  was 
named  by  Castano  de  Sosa  in  1591,  and  in  the  year  1680  is 
said  to  have  had  a  population  of  more  than  800.  After  the 
Spaniards  were  driven  out,  the  Indians  of  San  Cristobal  set- 
tled south  of  present  San  Juan  —  later  most  of  their  descend- 
ants migrated  to  the  Hopi  country. 

Like  Galisteo  and  the  other'  pueblos  of  the  Galisteo  Basin, 
San  Cristobal  was  occupied  by  the  Tano  tribe,  now  extinct  — 
they  were  virtually  exterminated  shortly  after  the  Pueblo 
Revolt,  being  among  the  first  to  besiege  Santa  Fe  and  to  take 
possession  of  the  city,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the 
Pueblo  plot  is  said  to  have  been  revealed  by  some  of  the 
friendly  inhabitants  of  the  doomed  village. 

The  rock  pictographs  in  San  Cristobal  Canyon  are  on  the 
Pankey  cattle  ranch.  The  Pankey  ranch  covers  the  Eaton 
land  grant  of  many  thousand  acres  and  is  one  of  the  largest 
cattle  outfits  in  New  Mexico.  On  the  southeast  corner  the 
Toltec  Oil  Company  is  boring  for  oil.  On  this  ranch  is  one 
of  the  few  herds  of  wild  horses  in  the  State. 

The  scenery  through  Piedras  Negras  and  Apache  canyons 
is  picturesque. 


There  and  back,  one  day.     Distance,  58  miles,  round  trip. 

Route,  via  Canyoncito  and  Glarieta. 

Fare,  $25  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur, 
or  $20  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 
Light  baggage  only. 

Meals,  extra  for  party;   noon  lunch  at  Valley  Ranch,  75  cents  each. 

Valley  Ranch  is  an  all-the-year-round  resort,  located  along 
the  Pecos  River,  at  the  gateway  of  the  road  leading  to  the 
headquarters  of  that  stream.  It  is  a  pleasant  stopping-place 
for  tourist  travel,  attracted  thither  by  the  fine  fishing  and 
the  opportunities  for  horseback  rides  and  mountain-climbing. 
Many  Santa  Feans  week-end  there. 

A  side  run  of  a  few  miles  brings  the  sightseer  to  the  re- 
stored ruins  of  the  ancient  Pecos  church,  built  in  1617;  also, 
adjacent  are  the  ruins  of  Indian  pueblo  of  Cicuye  now  being 
excavated  by  the  archaeological  department  of  Phillips  Acad- 
emy, Andover,  Mass.  This  mission  was  abandoned  in  1782 
and  pueblo  deserted  in  1838,  the  thirteen  survivors  going  to 
Jemez.  A  settlement  probably  existed  on  this  site  continuously 
for  nine  centuries  prior  to  1540. 

When  first  visited  by  the  Spaniards  in  1540,  eighty  years 
before  Plymouth  Rock,  Pecos  was  undoubtedly  the  largest 
town  in  what  is  now  the  United  States.  It  was  a  walled  city, 
and  its  inhabitants  were  warlike  and  self-reliant.  Graphic 
descriptions  of  it  are  found  in  the  old  Spanish  chronicles  and 
writings  by  Castaneda,  de  Sosa,  Benavides  and  others.  It 
was  besieged  at  various  times,  being  the  eastern  outpost  of 
Pueblo  civilization  and  exposed  to  attack  by  the  Plains  tribes. 
Its  balconies  and  subterranean  chambers  were  noted  in  their 
day,  and  the  latter  have  just  been  disclosed  by  excavations. 
The  site  is  owned  by  the  Museum  of  New  Mexico,  and  the 
mission  church  ruins  were  restored  by  the  School  of  Amer- 
ican Research. 

The  Mexican  village  of  Pecos,  midway  between  Valley 
Ranch  and  Cicuye,  is  another  attraction.  En  route,  one  has  a 
glimpse  of  Apache  Canyon  and  the  battlefield  of  Glorieta, 
where  a  crucial  battle  of  the  Civil  War  was  fought  in  1862. 
Gen.  Kearny  fought  the  Mexicans  in  Apache  Canyon  in  1846. 


Pietograph*,  Pankey  Ranch. 
13 


Restored  Ruin*  of  Old  Pecoi  Million  Church. 

14 


No.  9. — Santa  Fe  to  Valley  Ranch  and  Upper  Pecos. 


No.  10.—  Santa  Fe  to  Taos. 


A  two  days'  journey.     Distance,  110  miles,  round  trip. 

Route,  via  Glorieta,  Pecos  Ruins  and  Valley  Ranch. 

Fare,  $60  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur, 
or  $50  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 

Meals  and  lodging,  extra  for  party,  estimated  at  $5.50  each  person. 
Light  baggage  only. 

On  the  way  to  Pecos  village,  the  route  followed  is  similar 
to  that  under  Trip  No.  8,  passing  Glorieta  battlefield,  Canyon- 
cito  and  visiting  the  ruins  of  the  Pecos  pueblo,  where  exten- 
sive excavating  has  been  done  the  past  few  years.  Turning 
north  at  Pecos  village,  the  Valley  Ranch,  a  famous  tourist 
resort,  is  passed. 

The  road  from  Valley  Ranch  to  the  Upper  Pecos  is  one 
of  the  finest  scenic  drives  in  this  whole  country.  The  road 
follows  the  Peeps  Canyon  and  the  Pecos  River  —  a  beautiful, 
rushing  mountain  stream  —  through  forests  of  aspen  and  pine, 
with  numerous  side  streams  flowing  in  through  smaller  can- 
yons along  the  way. 

The  Upper  Pecos  is  the  American  Tyrol.  In  summer  it  is 
the  home  of  hundreds  of  vacationers,  who  either  camp  out  in 
tents  or  live  in  cottages.  The  U.  S.  Forest  Service  is  making 
this  part  of  the  Santa  Fe  National  Forest  into  one  of  the 
nation's  foremost  playgrounds  by  leasing  cottage  sites  in 
ideal  locations  and  at  nominal  rentals. 

There  is  a  well-built  auto  road  as  far  up  as  the  U.  S. 
Forest  Ranger's  station  at  Panchuelo,  passing  El  Macho, 
Irvins-pn-the-Pecos,  Winsors  and  Mountain  View  Ranch.  The 
Pecos  is  a  noted  trout  stream,  stocked  yearly  by  Uncle  Sam, 
and  dearly  loved  by  the  disciples  of  Izaak  Walton. 

On  the  upper  Pecos  are  found  coal,  copper,  zinc  and  other 
mines.  Glorious  horseback  trails,  built  by  the  Forest  Service, 
lead  across  the  stupendous  Santa  Fe  Mountains  into  the  Santa 
Fe  Canyon,  and  to  the  Scenic  Highway  across  the  Dalton 
Divide. 

This  region  is  an  ideal  one  for  pack  and  hunting  trips. 

In  that  well-known  book  of  travel,  "  Through  the  Un- 
known Southwest,"  Agnes  C.  Laut  devotes  a  chapter  to  the 
Pecos  Forests.  She  traversed  this  same  route,  through  Glo- 
rieta and  Valley  Ranch.  Her  description  of  the  ride  up  Pecos 
Canyon  in  a  wagon  with  a  Mexican  driver  is  full  of  thrills. 


aos  Pueblo 

ernando  de  Taoi 
Ranchos  deTaos 


Requires  three  days.     Distance,  196  miles,  round  trip,  and  round  about 


Taos. 

Route,  via  Tesuque,  Pojoaque,  Santa  Cruz,  Velarde,  Glenwoody  and 
Cieneguilla.  Return  same  way. 

This  schedule  allows  one  day  en  route  in  each  direction,  and  one  day  in 
which  to  see  the  two  Mexican  settlements  of  Ranckos  de  Taos  and  Fer- 
nandez de  Taos,  as  well  as  the  Indian  pueblo  of  San  Geronimo  de  Taos. 
By  staying  a  day  longer,  more  time  can  be  given  to  this  locality  — 
the  extra  cost  will  be  $17.50  for  six-passenger  car  and  $15  for  four- 
passenger  car,  and  about  $2.50  or  $3  for  meals  and  lodging  at  hotel  in 
Fernandez  de  Taos. 

Fare  for  three  days'  trip,  $85  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger 
auto  with  chauffeur,  or  $70  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger 
auto  with  chauffeur. 

Meals  and  lodging  for  three  days'  trip,  extra,  estimated  at  $6  each 
person.  Light  baggage  only. 

At  Velarde  the  road  strikes  the  Rio  Grande  and  follows  the 
canyon  of  that  river  for  many  miles,  finally  emerging  on  a  high 
plateau  and  crossing  same  until  Fernandez  de  Taos  is  reached, 
in  the  foothills  of  the  high  Taos  Mountains. 

Taos  Valley  is  one  of  the  loveliest  of  New  Mexican  valleys. 

At  Ranches  de  Taos  is  an  old  mission  church,  built  in  1778. 

Fernandez  de  Taos  is  noted  as  the  former  home  of  Kit  Car- 
son, the  scout;  here,  too,  once  lived  Governor  Bent,  Col. 
St.  Vrain  and  Judge  Beaubien  ;  at  present  it  is  celebrated  as 
the  summer  home  of  prominent  eastern  artists,  including 
E.  Irving  Couse,  Bert  G.  Phillips,  Joseph  H.  Sharp,  E.  L. 
Blumenschein,  W.  Herbert  Dunton,  O.  E.  Berninghaus,  Walter 
Ufer  and  Victor  Higgins  ;  its  artist  colony  is  closely  related 
to  that  of  Santa  Fe. 

The  Indian  pueblo  of  San  Geronimo  de  Taos  (pop.  517), 
a  few  miles  distant,  is  located  on  opposite  sides  of  the  Taos 
River,  one  section  of  communal  adobe  houses  rising  to  a 
height  of  seven  stories,  the  other  five.  These  great  piles  look 
like  pyramids.  There  are  seven  kivas  and  a  modern  mission 
church.  The  inhabitants  retain  their  primitive  ways.  The 
festival  of  San  Geronimo  is  annually  held  on  September  30. 
This  region  was  first  visited  by  an  officer  of  Coronado's  expe- 
dition in  1541,  and  was  made  a  Spanish  mission  in  1617. 

NOTE.  —  This  can  be  extended  into  a  five  days'  outing,  com- 
ing back  by  way  of  Cimarron,  Mora  and  Las  Vegas. 


A  Scene  on  the  Upper  Pecos  River. 
15 


Indian  Pueblo  of  San  Geronimo  de  Taos. 
16 


No.  11. —  Santa  Fe  to  Gran  Quivira,  Abo,  Cuarai 
and  Manzano. 


No.  12. —  Santa  Fe  to  San  Marcos  Pueblo  Ruins. 


A  three  days'  journey.     Distance,  324  miles,  round  trip. 

Route,  by  way  of  Lamy,  Galisteo,  Estancia  and  Mountainair;  return 
via.  Abo.  Becker,  Helen  and  Albuquerque. 

Fare,  $96  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur, 
or  $85  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 

Meati  and  lodging  extra,  estimated  at  $7.60  each  for  entire  trip. 
Light  baggage  only. 

In  the  Estancia  Valley  of  Central  New  Mexico,  east  of  the 
Manzano  and  Sandia  Mountains,  is  the  region  of  Salt  Lakes, 
where  also  are  found  the  mission  church  and  prehistoric 
pueblo  ruins  of  Cuarai,  Abo  and  La  Gran  Quivira.  Of  these, 
La  Gran  Quivira  (or  Tabira)  is  most  widely  known.  First 
missions  among  Piro  pueblos  of  the  Salinas  were  established 
in  1629  at  Abo  and  Tabira,  and  probably  also  at  Tenabo,  and 
destroyed  by  Apache  and  Pueblo  Indians  in  1674. 

Gran  Quivira  is  now  a  National  Monument.  The  adjoining 
portion  of  the  pueblo  ruins  is  owned  by  the  Museum  of  New 
Mexico,  as  also  is  the  site  of  the  pueblo  and  mission  ruins  of 
La  Cuarai. 

Abo  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the  mission  church  ruins  in  the 
Southwest.  Cliffs  of  prehistoric  painted  rocks  are  found  near 
Abo  station. 

The  Manzano  pueblos  are  known  as  "  The  Cities  That  Were 
Forgotten,"  or  "  The  Cities  That  Died  of  Fear,"  having  been 
abandoned  just  before  the  Pueblo  Revolution  of  1680  on 
account  of  Apache  raids  and  having  been  practically  for- 
gotten for  two  centuries  following.  The  survivors  of  the 
ancient  inhabitants,  the  Piro  and  Tigua  Indians,  are  found  on 
both  sides  of  the  Rio  Grande,  south  of  El  Paso,  at  Senecu 
del  Sur,  in  Chihuahua.  The  entire  Piro  division  of  the  Tanoan 
family  is  thought  to  have  numbered  nine  thousand  persons 
early  in  the  seventeenth  century ;  only  a  few  descendants  sur- 
vive and  they  hardly  can  be  distinguished  from  Mexicans. 
Manzano  has  the  oldest  apple  orchard  in  the  United  States 
of  America,  planted  before  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at 
Plymouth  Rock. 

On  the  return  leg  of  the  journey  the  way  lies  across  a 
mountain  range,  then  dipping  down  to  the  valley  of  the  Rio 
Grande.  That  stream  is  followed  most  of  the  way  home,  not 
far  from  Santa  Fe  rails. 


A  one  day's  journey.     Distance,  60  miles,  round  trip. 
Route,  by  way  of  Cienega  and  Turquoise  Mines. 

Fare,  $26  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with  chauffeurr 
or  $20  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 
Meals,  noon  basket  lunch,  60  cents  each. 

The  Turquoise  Mine-  is  owned  by  the  American  Turquoise 
Co.,  in  which  the  Tiffanys  of  New  York  are  interested,  and 
has  not  been  operated  to  any  extent  for  the  past  few  years. 
The  New  Mexican  turquoise  is  said  by  high  authority  to  bear 
a  greater  resemblance  to  the  Egyptian  rather  than  to  the  Per- 
sian specimens  of  that  mineral.  The  Tanos  of  Santo  Domingo 
regard  themselves  as  the  real  owners  of  the  site,  and  often 
visit  it. 

South  of  the  Turquoise  Mine  is  found  the  ruin  of  San 
Marcos  Pueblo,  where  an  interesting  time  may  be  had  search- 
ing for  arrowheads  and  other  Indian  relics. 

San  Marcos  was  one  of  the  largest  of  the  pueblos  in  ancient 
times,  something  like  3,000  rooms  being  included  in  the  com- 
munity houses. 

The  Queres  name  was  Ya-tze,  but  the  Tanos  called  it  Kua- 
kaa.  The  name  San  Marcos  was  given  in  1591  by  Caspar  Cas- 
tano  de  Sosa.  The  place  was  abandoned  in  1680.  When 
Diego  de  Vargas  passed  through,  in  1692,  it  was  then  in  ruins. 

The  Cash  Entry  Mine  is  a  silver  mine  a  few  miles  south  of 
San  Marcos.  It  is  usual  on  this  trip  to  visit  the  small  Petri- 
fied Forest  three  miles  east  of  Cerrillos,  on  the  main  line  of 
the  Santa  Fe  Railway.  The  petrified  trees  here  found  are 
similar  to  those  of  the  noted  Petrified  Forest  of  Arizona,  but 
they  are  not  nearly  as  numerous. 

Just  before  reaching  the  Turquoise  Mines,  the  historic  min- 
ing camp  of  Bonanza  is  passed.  Here  General  Lew  Wallace 
had  mining  interests  and  would  spend  days  in  the  two-story 
frame  house  still  to  be  seen  there.  Occasionally  he  had  with 
him  his  manuscript  of  Ben  Hur,  which  he  was  then  writing, 
and  part  of  the  story  is  said  to  have  been  written  here. 

Near  by  is  the  Tano  pueblo  ruin  of  Cienega,  which,  like  San 
Marcos,  has  been  partially  excavated.  Cienega  is  a  quaint  set- 
tlement, peculiar  because  of  the  red  color  of  its  houses,  caused 
by  the  redness  of  the  clay  from  which  the  adobes  are  made. 


La  Cuarai  Mission  Church  Ruin. 

17 


Auto  Part;  on  Upper  Pecos. 
18 


•    Kaibab 
National 

Forest 


This  map  shows  some  of  the  trips  that  may  be  taken  by  saddle  and  pack,  also  by  tea 

vary  from  quick  one-day  auto  jaunts  to  thirty-day  saddle  and  pack  camping  trips.  1 

mountains,  painted  deserts  and  petrified  forests.  The  Grand  Canyon,  too,  and  lesser  c 

And  all  for  a  reasonable  price,  keeping  in  touch  with  civilization,  y< 


19 


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S*^Vorestf  I    J  .* 

K-3.1**    •••:  H«£ 


'  Outing  Trips 


or  auto  to  out-of-the-way  places  in  northern  New  Mexico  and  Arizona.  These  outings 
;y  include  Indian  pueblos,  Mexican  villages,  prehistoric  cliff-dwellings,  snowcapped 
yons.  You  can  fish,  hunt,  tramp  and  sight-see.  You  can  rough  it  to  any  extent  desired, 
apart  from  it.  Suitable  for  late  spring,  summer  and  early  fall  months. 


21 


22 


No.  13.— Santa  Fe  to  Tesuque  Indian  Pueblo. 


A  three  hours1  journey.     Distance,  18  miles,  round  trip. 

Route,  by  way  of  Tesuque  Village. 

Fare,  $10  for  party  of  six  or  less  in  six-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur, 
or  $7  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  four-passenger  auto  with  chauffeur. 
Light  baggage  only. 

The  Tesuque  Indian  Pueblo,  located  nine  miles  north  of 
Santa  Fe,  is  the  nearest  pueblo  to  that  city.  For  those  having 
but  a  few  hours  to  spend,  this  trip  is  recommended,  as  Tesu- 
que probably  is  one  of  the  finest  examples  of  pueblo  life.  In 
connection  with  this  journey,  at  an  additional  expense  of  $3, 
an  hour  can  be  devoted  to  "  Seeing  Santa  Fe,"  with  a  capable 
guide. 

The  trip  to  Tesuque  is  one  of  the  most  charming,  mile  for 
mile,  that  can  be  taken  in  the  Southwest.  The  ascent  from 
Santa  Fe  to  the  Tesuque  Divide  is  made  in  part  over  the  Sena 
Circle  Drive,  on  the  ridge  of  a  foothill,  commanding  vistas  of 
mountains  and  cedar-covered  foothills.  From  the  top  of  the 
divide  a  wonderful  panorama  is  spread  before  the  eyes.  It 
comprises  much  of  human  interest,  because  of  the  lovely  Tesu- 
que Valley,  the  distant  cliff-dwelling  mesas,  and  the  many  his- 
toric spots  which  dot  the  landscape.  Towards  the  mountains 
one  looks  over  vast  forests,  part  of  the  Santa  Fe  National 
Forest  of  more  than  1,400,000  acres  —  across  gorges  and  can- 
yons to  mountain  peaks  covered  with  eternal  snows. 

The  descent  is  made  over  a  well-built  road  down  to  the 
Tesuque  River  into  a  rural  settlement  that  is  famous  for  apples, 
prunes,  plums,  cherries  and  other  horticultural  and  agricul- 
tural products.  To  one  side  is  Bishop's  Ranch,  with  its  pretty 
chapel  and  fine  homes  built  in  New  Mexico  style  of  archi- 
tecture. 

The  pueblo  itself  is  off  the  main  road  and  is  an  example  of 
so-called  protective  coloring,  for  one  would  pass  within  sight 
of  it  ordinarily  without  seeing  it,  the  houses  being  of  the  same 
color  as  the  earth  and  the  hills. 

The  Tesuques  are  noted  for  their  unique  dances,  such  as  the 
Eagle,  Deer  and  Buffalo. 

IMPORTANT  NOTE. —  Combinations  of  many  of  the  foregoing 
trips  may  be  made  for  a  longer  outing.  On  request  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Camp  Co.  will  plan  a  circle  tour  by  auto  of  one  or 
two  weeks. 


No.   14. —  Camping  Trips  from  Santa  Fe. 

The  Rocky  Mountain  Camp  Co.  also  can  provide  teams  and 
mountain  wagons  for  special  trips  to  main  tourist  attractions 
reached  by  auto,  with  accommodations  at  end  of  each  day's 
journey.  One  method  is  to  go  by  wagon  or  with  saddle  and 
pack  horses,  also  "  chuck  "  and  camping  outfit. 

Every  point  accessible  for  auto  or  team  easily  can  be  reached 
by  saddle  and  pack  animals.  In  addition  there  are  numerous 
combinations  of  saddle  and  pack  jaunts  into  the  mountains  on 
each  side  of  the  Rio  Grande  for  recreation,  hunting,  fishing 
and  camping.  There  are  about  2,000,000  acres  of  mountain 
peaks,  canyons,  trout  streams  and  game  haunts,  well  timbered, 
to  the  east,  west  and  north  of  Santa  Fe,  in  the  Sangre  de 
Cristo,  Taos,  Valles,  Jemez  and  Cochiti  ranges.  Four  peaks  are 
more  than  13,000  feet  high,  seven  others  12,000  feet  and  up,  and 
a  score  or  more  with  an  altitude  of  approximately  10,000  feet. 
Lake  Peak,  Santa  Fe  Baldy,  Elk  Mountain,  Grass  Mountain, 
the  Truchas  Peaks,  Jicarilla  Peak,  and  the  snow-capped  eleva- 
tions of  the  Jemez  range  are  prominent  features  along  the 
trails  traversed. 

Outfits  can  be  procured  for  long  overland  trips  to  Acoma, 
Zuni,  Canyon  de  Chelly,  Canyon  del  Muerto,  the  Rainbow  and 
Natural  Bridges  of  Utah,  Mesa  Verde  National  Park,  through 
the  heart  of  the  Navaho  Reservation  to  the  Hopi  villages,  etc. 

Regular  tours  may  be  arranged,  in  season,  following  a  set 
route  and  lasting  from  one  to  three  weeks,  at  a  flat  rate  cover- 
ing all  expenses,  or  at  a  per  diem  charge. 

A  sample  outing  starts  from  Santa  Fe,  thence  up  Dalton 
Trail  to  Pecos  River  at  Panchuelo  Ranger  station,  via  Lake 
Peak  and  Spirit  Lake.  From  there  to  the  Falls  of  the  Pecos, 
with  a  side  tour  to  Truchas  Peaks,  and  on  to  Taos  through 
the  Santa  Barbara  grant.  The  route  from  Taos,  southwest  to 
Espanola,  takes  in  Picuris,  Las  Trampas,  Truchas  and  Chi- 
mayo.  After  leaving  Espanola  the  cliff-dwellings  of  Puye, 
Otowi,  Tsankawi,  Tschirege  and  Frijoles  are  visited,  the  party 
disbanding  at  Santa  Fe. 

Trips  can  be  arranged,  on  short  notice,  for  visiting  old  ruins 
and  Indian  villages,  for  hunting  and  fishing,  or  any  other  form 
of  out-door  recreation.  Saddle  and  pack  animals  are  a  spec- 
ialty ;  but  buggies  or  spring  wagons  are  furnished  when  needed. 
The  horses  are  sure-footed  cow  ponies,  at  home  on  any  trail. 
Complete  camp  outfits,  with  good  cooks  and  plenty  to-  eat. 
Fishing  along  remote  streams  where  the  catch  is  ample. 

Rates  depend  upon  length  of  trip  and  size  of  party,  and  each 
trip  is  planned  in  advance.  It  is  customary  to  charge  a  lump 
sum,  which  includes  transportation,  meals,  lodging  and  ser- 
vices of  guides. 

Permanent  camps  are  maintained  by  the  Rocky  Mountain 
Camp  Co.  in  the  Santa  Fe  National  Forest  and  the  Bandelier 
National  Monument.  These  are  operated  during  the  summer 
months  for  fishing,  hunting,  riding  and  exploration. 

Visitors  in  Santa  Fe  are  invited  to  visit  the  Information 
Bureau  of  The  Rocky  Mountain  Camp  Co. 


Eagle  Dance,  Tesuque. 
23 


Off  the  Beaten  Path. 
24 


Camping  Out  on  the  Painted  Desert. 


Noon  Camp  at  Canyon  de  Chelly. 


After  the  Hunt. 

Camping  Trips  from  Espanola. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Richard  Pfaffle,  proprietors  of  El  Onate  Hotel, 
Espanola,  N.  M.,  are  prepared  to  conduct  special  parties  for 
jaunts  among  the  Indian  pueblos  in  vicinity,  the  ruins  of  Puye 
and  Frijoles,  the  Spanish  churches  in  the  outlying  Mexican 
villages,  and  also  for  camping  trips  into  the  Rockies. 

At  their  mountain  ranch,  40  miles  up  in  the  Jemez  Range, 
there  is  excellent  trout  fishing  and  game  in  season,  with  oppor- 
tunities for  a  complete  rest. 

Reduced  rates  are  made  for  artists,  students  and  persons  of 
limited  means,  who  travel  by  wagon  in  charge  of  competent 
Indian  guides. 

The  regular  parties  are  in  charge  of  Mr.  Robert  C.  Prewitt, 
under  Mr.  Pfaffle's  direction  and  assisted  by  native  Indians. 
Many  of  the  longer  trips  reach  into  the  Navaho  country  — 
Mr.  Prewitt  spent  his  early  life  there,  speaks  their  language 
and  thoroughly  understands  their  customs,  ceremonies,  etc. 

Both  Mr.  Pfaffle  and  his  wife  have  made  frequent  journeys 
by  saddle  and  pack  in  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  Southern  Colo- 
rado and  Southern  Utah,  hence  have  first-hand  knowledge  of 
that  region.  And  they  probably  know  the  startling  rites  of 
the  Penitentes  better  than  most  other  American  neighbors  of 
that  strange  sect. 

They  will  meet  patrons  in  Santa  Fe,  if  desired,  provided 
sufficient  advance  notice  is  given. 

Rates  made  known  on  application. 


Eaton  Party  in  Camp  on  the  Navaho  Reservation. 
25 


Overlooking  Frijoles  Canyon 
26 


Howard  Eaton  1917  Camping  Party. 


Adamana  to  Wide  Ruins  and  Hopi  Pueblos. 


GRAND 
CANYON 


anyon  del  Myerto 
Canyon  de  CWly 


S  Ft  Defiance 
Michaels 


Mr.  Howard  Eaton  is  proprietor  of  Eaton's  Ranch,  Wolf, 
Wyoming,  where  in  summer  and  fall  months  he  conducts  a 
ranch  resort.  For  the  last  three  years  he  has  taken  special 
horseback  parties  through  the  Zuni,  Hopi  and  Navaho  Indian 
reservations,  in  New  Mexico  and  Arizona. 

Another  Eaton  party  is  scheduled  for  the  Fall  of  1917,  pro- 
vided a  sufficient  number  join.  Strictly  limited  to  fifty  per- 
sons, but  will  start  if  only  thirty  go.  Reservations  must  reach 
Mr.  Eaton  not  later  than  August  i,  with  deposit.  Members 
of  party  must  reach  Adamana  not  later  than  October  9. 

The  plan  is  to  leave  Adamana,  Arizona,  October  10,  1917, 
by  auto  north  to  Indian  Wells,  half  way  to  the  Hopi  pueblos, 
first  taking  in  the  Petrified  Forests.  From  that  point  horses 
and  coaches  will  be  used,  accompanied  by  chuck  wagons.  A 
coach  is  provided  for  resting  after  long  rides  in  the  saddle. 

The  route  from  Indian  Wells  is  via  Polacca,  Keams  Canyon, 
Ganado,  Chinle,  Ft.  Defiance,  St.  Michaels,  Gallup,  Inscription 
Rock,  Zuni  and  Navaho,  back  to  Adamana,  where  Santa  Fe 
train  will  be  taken  to  Grand  Canyon.  The  party  disbands  here. 

Among  important  attractions  on  the  way  are  the  sky-cities 
of  the  Hopi  Indians,  Navaho  trading  post  at  Ganado,  Can- 
yons de  Chelly  and  del  Muerto,  Inscription  Rock,  Zuni  Indian 
pueblo  and  the  Petrified  Forests. 

The  above  places  will  all  be  visited,  unless  unforeseen  causes 
interfere.  Three  days  are  allowed  at  the  Grand  Canyon  of 
Arizona;  riding  down  Hermit  Trail,  sleeping  at  Hermit  Camp, 
riding  along  Tonto  Trail  —  which  winds  in  and  out,  up  and 
down  the  inner  canyon  plateau  —  and  then  up  Bright  Angel 
Trail  to  the  rim. 

The  $300  charged  by  Mr.  Eaton  for  this  thirty-days'  trip 
includes  all  expenses  except  railroad  ticket.  Members  of  party 
should  buy  round-trip  excursion  ticket  over  the  Santa  Fe  to 
Grand  Canyon,  on  which  stopover  will  be  granted  at  Adamana. 
Plain,  serviceable  clothing  and  easy  shoes  or  riding  boots 
should  be  worn.  Medium  weight  underwear,  with  a  sweater, 
or  overcoat,  is  advised.  Raincoats  or  slickers  are  desirable 
for  chance  storms.  Ladies  should  procure  divided  skirts  or 
riding  habits.  Personal  baggage  on  riding  trip  is  limited  to 
one  suitcase.  Booklets  will  be  sent  on  request. 


Adamana  is  railroad  station  for  the  Petrified  Forests.  Mr. 
Chester  B.  Campbell  runs  the  Campbell  Hotel  and  livery. 

Besides  one-day  trips  to  various  sections  of  the  Forests, 
Mr.  Campbell  takes  tourists  by  auto  to  the  old  Navaho  trading 
post  of  Kin-Tiel  (Wide  Ruins)  and  to  the  Hopi  villages. 

The  distance  by  road  to  Wide  Ruins  from  Adamana  is  48 
miles.  The  round-trip  easily  is  made  in  a  day,  stopping  for 
noon  lunch  at  destination.  The  way  is  over  a  plateau  country, 
traversed  by  sandy  washes  and  broken  by  some  high  ridges. 
En  route  the  traveler  passes  Pinta,  Inscription  Rock,  the 
Painted  Desert  and  LeRoux  Wash,  entering  the  Navaho  reser- 
vation about  thirty  miles  out.  Tanner  Spring  cattle  and  sheep 
ranch  is  the  next  point  of  interest.  The  prehistoric  ruins 
clustering  around  the  spring  at  Kin-Tiel  indicate  that  a  very 
extensive  settlement  once  existed  here. 

The  trip  requires  three  and  one-quarter  hours  each  way. 
The  charge  for  auto  party  of  four  persons  or  less  is  $30,  in- 
cluding noon  lunch  and  services  of  chauffeur,  who  also  acts 
as  guide.  Only  light  luggage  carried. 

Six  days  should  be  allowed  for  the  auto  trip  to  Hopi  vil- 
lages, but  the  journey  can  be  made  more  quickly. 

The  route  from  Adamana  is  close  to  the  railroad  as  far  as 
Aztec  station,  12  miles,  thence  north  across  the  Painted  Desert 
and  near  the  Hopi  Buttes  to  Indian  Wells,  Keams  Canyon  and 
Polacca.  With  Polacca  as  headquarters  the  other  two  mesas 
are  visited.  Return  same  route. 

The  distance  traversed  is  about  240  miles  round-trip.  Auto  is 
used  for  the  90  miles  to  Keams  Canyon,  where  saddle-ponies 
are  secured  for  remainder  of  trip  to  Wolpi,  Toreva  and  Oraibi. 

For  party  of  three  persons  or  less,  occupying  one  auto,  with 
light  suitcases,  Mr.  Campbell's  price  is  $30  a  day,  all  expenses 
included.  This  makes  the  entire  trip  cost  from  $120  to  $180, 
depending  upon  whether  four  or  six  days  are  consumed.  It 
requires  at  least  eight  hours  to  go  from  Adamana  to  Keams 
Canyon,  or  one  day  to  Polacca  (Wolpi).  This  expense,  di- 
vided among  three  persons,  would  be  $40  to  $60  apiece. 

Camping  trips  can  be  taken  from  Adamana  to  the  Hopi 
country,  with  teams,  saddle  horses,  guide  and  complete  outfit, 
requiring  twelve  days  for  round  trip,  at  rate  of  $100  each  per- 
son, all  expenses  paid  —  minimum  of  four  persons  in  party. 


Eaton  1916  Party,  Canyon  de  Chelly. 
27 


Navaho  Trading  Post  at  Wide  Ruins   (Kin-Tiel). 
28 


Laguna  and  Acoma  Indian  Pueblos. 


Gallup  to  Zuni  and  Inscription  Rock. 


Laguna  Pu 
Acoma 


N 

i 


ISLETA 


BELEN 


By  stopping  off  at  Laguna  station,  New  Mexico,  the  Indian 
pueblos  of  Laguna  and  Acoma  may  be  briefly  visited. 

Lodging  and  meals  at  Laguna  station  hotel,  run  by  E.  F. 
Eckerman,  who  also  conducts  local  livery.  No  accommoda- 
tions for  visitors  at  either  pueblo. 

Auto  or  wagon  transportation,  Laguna  station  to  Laguna 
pueblo,  3  miles,  costs  $i  each  person,  round-trip,  any  number. 

By  auto,  Laguna  station  to  Acoma  pueblo  direct,  12  miles, 
the  fare  is  $3  each  person,  for  three  or  more  persons,  up  to 
capacity  of  car,  with  minimum  charge  of  $8  for  less  than  three. 

By  team,  Laguna  station  to  Acoma  pueblo,  direct,  the  charge 
is  $3  round-trip  each  person,  with  minimum  charge  of  $5. 

The  journey  from  railroad  to  Acoma  requires  about  two 
hours  each  way  by  auto  and  three  hours  by  team. 

The  pueblo  of  Laguna  (San  Josef  de  la  Laguna)  was  founded 
in  1699.  It  is  picturesquesly  located  on  a  high  rock  near  the 
San  Jose  River.  The  old  parish  church  contains  the  largest 
painting  ever  made  on  elk  skin.  In  former  days  several  im- 
portant battles  were  fought  here  with  Navahos  and  Apaches. 
Laguna  Indians  also  occupy  nearby  villages  at  Paquate,  Negra, 
Encino  and  Casa  Blanca.  The  Laguna  tribe  numbers  1,412 
persons. 

The  so-called  "  sky  city "  of  Acoma  (people  of  the  white 
rock)  on  a  mesa  400  feet  high,  was  founded  in  prehistoric 
times  and  first  heard  of  by  Friar  Marcos  in  1539.  Here,  in 
1599,  the  Spaniards  conquered  the  Acomas  in  a  three-days' 
battle.  On  Rock  of  Acoma  stands  only  Franciscan  mission  — 
established  in  1629  —  which  entirely  survived  the  Pueblo  Re- 
bellion of  1680;  all  materials  for  this  church  were  brought 
from  plain  below  up  steep  trail  on  backs  of  Indians.  Present 
population,  691. 

The  Mesa  Encantada,  reputed  site  of  prehistoric  village  of 
Katzimo,  lies  between  Laguna  and  Acoma. 

Acoma  and  Laguna  Indians  make  pottery,  till  the  fields  and 
have  large  herds  of  sheep  and  goats.  Annual  fiesta  at  Acoma 
takes  place  September  2.  The  winter  dances  at  Laguna  are 
notable,  also  their  September  19  fiesta.  Acoma  is  a  very  primi- 
tive pueblo ;  Laguna,  being  nearer  the  railway,  has  more  evi- 
dences of  civilization.  At  no  other  place  along  the  Santa  Fe 
can  the  home  life  of  the  Pueblo  Indians  be  so  easily  seen. 


Zuni 


Mr.  J.  L.  Hubbell,  Indian  trader,  Gallup,  New  Mexico,  will 
take  parties  by  auto  to  Zuni,  Ramah  and  Inscription  Rock. 
The  round-trip  journey  from  Gallup  to  Zuni  can  be  made  in 
one  day,  though  two  days  is  preferable. 

An  extra  day  is  required,  Zuni  to  Inscription  Rock,  vi» 
Ramah. 

Distance  from  Gallup  to  Zuni  is  40  miles,  and  from  Zuni 
to  Inscription  Rock  25  miles. 

Fare  is  $30  for  party  of  three  or  less  in  Ford  auto,  with 
chauffeur,  Gallup  to  Zuni  and  return,  a  one-day  trip;  lunch 
at  Zuni  included. 

Fare  is  $60  for  party  of  three  or  less  in  Ford  auto  with 
chauffeur,  Gallup  to  Zuni  and  return,  a  two-days'  trip,  includ- 
ing meals  and  lodging  at  Zuni  —  or  $35  if  party  furnishes  its 
own  accommodations  at  Zuni.  Light  baggage  only. 

Rooms  and  meals  may  be  obtained  at  trading  store  of  A. 
Vanderwagen;  room  only,  at  trading  store  of  Mr.  Ilfield. 

If  party  continues  journey  to  Ramah  and  Inscription  Rock, 
the  extra  expense  for  auto,  one  day,  will  be  $30,  meals  and 
lodging  included. 

Gallup  is  a  division  point  on  the  Santa  Fe  and  gateway  to 
many  sections  of  scenic  interest,  such  as  Zuni,  Inscription 
Rock,  the  Navaho  country,  the  Hopi  villages,  also  Canyon* 
de  Chelly,  del  Muerto  and  Chaco.  The  roads  in  the  region 
roundabout  are  quite  good  most  of  the  year. 

Zuni  (pop.  1700)  is  the  largest  of  all  the  Southwest  Indian 
pueblos,  situated  in  an  open  plain  on  the  Zuni  River,  near 
Thunder  Mountain.  The  adobe  houses,  built  in  communal 
fashion,  rise  in  some  instances  five  stories  high.  Zuni  was  in 
existence  when  the  Spaniards  explored  this  region  in  1540. 
The  most  famous  dance  is  the  Shalako,  held  usually  in  Novem- 
ber. The  Zunis  are  noted  as  pottery  makers,  yarn  spinner* 
and  turquoise  drillers. 

A  few  miles  above  the  Indian  settlement  is  Blackrock,  where 
the  U.  S.  Government  maintains  an  Indian  school  and  a  $500- 
ooo  dam  which  supplies  water  for  irrigation. 

Ramah  is  a  typical  Mormon  settlement. 

Inscription  Rock,  the  stone  autograph  album,  bears  inscrip- 
tions made  by  the  Spanish  explorers  as  far  back  as  1606.  The 
Rock  is  now  a  national  monument. 


Tablita  Dance,  Acoma. 
29 


Zuni   Kateina  Dance. 
30 


Trip   No.  A.— Gallup  to  Ganado. 


Trip  No.  B. —  Gallup  to  Canyons  De  Chelly  and 
Del  Muerto. 


TRIPS  OUT  OF  GALLUP. 

Mr.  J.  L.  Hubbell,  Indian  trader,  Gallup,  N.  M.,  also  owns 
trading  stores  at  Ganado,  Keams  Canyon  and  Chinle.  He  is 
equipped  to  care  for  outing  parties,  with  autos,  teams  and  sad- 
dle horses,  to  the  Navaho  and  Hopi  reservations  in  Arizona. 

Following  trips  are  by  auto,  except  saddle  ponies  in  Canyon 
de  Chelly,  Canyon  del  Muerto,  and  Hopi  villages.  Where 
team  or  saddle-pack  outfit  is  preferred,  special  rates  will  be 
made. 

Distance,  60  miles,  round  trip.     Route,  via  St.  Michaels. 
Time,  about  five  hours  each  way.    Only  light  baggage  carried. 
Fare,  $30,  /or  party  of  three  or  less  in  Ford  auto. 

Rate  named  includes  lodging  and  meals  at  Ganado,  also  saddle  ponies 
for  short  rides  around  Ganado  if  desired. 

Ganado  is  a  trading  post,  in  the  heart  of  the  Navaho  country, 
kept  by  Mr.  J.  L.  Hubbell,  who  has  lived  there  for  many  years. 
Here  one  may  see  how  the  Navahos  live  and  how  they  trade. 
Three  miles  from  Ganado  —  reached  by  auto  —  is  a  small  pet- 
rified forest. 

Half  way  from  Gallup  is  St.  Michaels,  Franciscan  mission 
and  school  for  Indian  children. 

A  few  miles  east  of  St.  Michaels  are  peculiarly  eroded  boul- 
ders shaped  like  stacks  of  hay,  and  the  Natural  Window. 
Kit  Carson  fought  and  defeated  the  Apaches  in  this  locality. 
North  of  St.  Michaels  is  Ft.  Defiance,  where  a  U.  S.  Indian 
school  is  maintained ;  the  fort  was  garrisoned  until  Indian 
outbreaks  ceased. 

The  Navaho  reservation  comprises  nearly  15,000  square 
miles  in  northwestern  Arizona.  The  Navahos  number  about 
25,000  persons.  In  their  own  tongue  they  call  themselves 
"  Dinneh  "  meaning  "  the  people."  By  the  early  Spaniards 
they  were  first  called  Apaches  de  Navaju,  or  "Apaches  with 
the  cultivated  fields."  They  are  pastoral,  owning  large  flocks 
of  sheep  and  herds  of  cattle.  The  12,000  Indians  of  Ft.  Defi- 
ance agency  are  estimated  to  own  406,000  sheep,  116,000  goats, 
15,000  cattle  and  26,000  horses.  In  1915  their  sales  of  various 
products  totaled  $1,000,000.  They  also  weave  fine  blankets 
and  work  in  silver.  Government  district  agencies  are  located 
at  Ft.  Defiance,  Tuba,  Leupp  and  Keams  Canyon,  Arizona, 
and  at  Shiprock,  N.  M. 


Four  days,  round  trip. 

Distance,  200  miles,  to  entrance  Canyon  de  Chelly  and  back. 

Route,  via  St.  Michaels,  Ganado  and  Chinle.   Only  light  baggage  carried. 

Fare,  $120,  for  party  of  three  or  less  in  Ford  auto. 

Rate  includes  meals  en  route,  lodging  at  Ganado  and  Chinle,  and  saddle 
ponies  with  guide  in  Canyons  de  Chelly  (pronounced  de  Shay)  and  del 
Muerto. 

The  journey  can  be  made  by  auto  in  one  day,  if  everything 
goes  right ;  same  time  for  return  —  which  would  allow  about 
two  days  for  the  canyons.  But  in  order  to  see  Ganado  prop- 
erly more  time  should  be  taken  for  the  going  journey;  arriv- 
ing Chinle  evening  of  second  day,  allowing  two  nights  and 
one  full  day  for  Chinle  and  vicinity.  There  is  so  much  to  see 
here  that  another  day  can  be  well  spent  in  the  canyons,  making 
five  days  from  Gallup  in  all.  For  the  extra  (fifth)  day  the 
additional  charge  for  party  of  three  or  less  will  be  $30. 

Between  St.  Michaels  and  Ganado  a  thickly  forested  area 
is  traversed,  the  road  winding  among  the  high  hills  of  Defi- 
ance Plateau.  From  Ganado  to  Chinle  the  way  lies  along  the 
broad  Chinle  Valley,  with  occasional  lakes  which  are  filled 
during  the  rainy  season. 

Chinle  is  a  Navaho  trading  post,  with  U.  S.  Indian  school 
and  a  mission.  A  few  miles  east  is  Rio  de  Chelly,  a  typical 
desert  stream,  which  heads  in  the  Chuska  Mountains  and  flows 
north  to  junction  with  the  San  Juan  in  southern  Utah. 

Canyon  de  Chelly,  with  its  own  principal  branches,  del  Muerto 
and  Monument,  is  about  forty  miles  long.  The  sandy  bed  of 
the  little  stream  (almost  dry  at  times  and  at  others  brim  full) 
is  hemmed  in  by  sheer  walls  of  red  sandstone  that  tower  sky- 
wards 800  to  1,500  feet.  On  either  side  are  pinnacles,  crags 
and  towers  of  great  height,  sculptured  by  wind  and  rain ;  of 
these  El  Capitan  stands  supreme.  Canyon  del  Muerto  gets 
its  gruesome  name  from  the  massacre  of  Navahos  by  Span- 
iards in  1804.  Scores  of  prehistoric  cliff  dwellings  nestle  in 
high  crevices  along  the  precipitous  rock  walls ;  the  White 
House,  Antelope  Ruin  and  Mummy  Cave  are  the  most  widely 
known.  Thousands  of  peach  trees,  planted  by  the  early  Span- 
iards, still  produce  fruit  for  their  Navaho  owners. 

There  are  Navaho  Indians  living  in  these  canyons  in  the 
same  primitive  fashion  that  they  lived  a  century  ago,  when  the 
Spaniards  first  came. 


The  White  House,  Canyon  de  Chelly. 
32 


Trip  No.  C. —  Chinle  to  Rainbow   Natural   Bridge. 


Trip  No.  D.—  Gallup  to  Hopi  Villages. 


On  the  northern  slopes  of  Navaho  Mountain,  just  beyond 
the  Arizona-Utah  line,  is  Bridge  Canyon,  a  tributary  of  San 
Juan  River.  In  this  canyon  is  the  Rainbow  Natural  Bridge, 
first  seen  by  white  men  in  1909  —  a  triumphal  arch  spanning 
a  wide  gorge.  It  is  so  inaccessible  that  but  few  travelers  have 
visited  it.  Ex-President  Roosevelt  went  there  during  the  sum- 
mer of  1913  and  describes  the  trip  as  one  of  many  thrills. 

One  route  to  the  Rainbow  Natural  Bridge  is  from  Chinle 
to  Kayenta  by  automobile,  along  the  foot  of  Black  Mesa,  thence 
by  trail  through  Marsh  Pass  and  Laguna  Canyon  (noted  for  its 
prehistoric  cliff  ruins)  and  crossing  the  upper  reaches  of  Piute 
Canyon  to  destination. 

Mr.  J.  L.  Hubbell  will  provide  automobiles  as  far  as  Kayenta, 
where  Messrs.  Wetherill  &  Colville  have  a  Navaho  trading  store. 
Facilities  for  the  arduous  camping  trip  between  Kayenta  and 
Rainbow  Natural  Bridge  are  furnished  by  Mr.  Wetherill.  The 
entire  trip,  from  Chinle  to  Rainbow  and  back,  can  be  made  in 
ten  to  twelve  days.  Approximate  charges  are  as  follows : 

Chinle  to  Kayenta  (75  miles)  and  return,  two  or  three  days, 
$60  and  $90  for  party  of  three  persons  or  less,  including  ser- 
vices of  guide,  meals  en  route  and  accommodations  at  Kayenta. 

Kayenta  to  Rainbow  Natural  Bridge  (75  miles)  and  return, 
eight  to  ten  days,  $30  a  day  for  party  of  three  persons  or  less, 
including  services  of  guide  and  meals  en  route. 

The  Rainbow  Natural  Bridge,  the  largest  in  the  world  (279 
feet  span  and  309  feet  high)  was  discovered  in  the  fall  of 
1909  by  a  party  under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  John  Wetherill, 
organized  by  Prof.  Byron  Cummings,  of  the  Arizona  Univer- 
sity, and  William  Douglass,  of  the  General  Land  Office. 

It  derives  its  name,  Rainbow,  from  the  Navaho  word,  Not- 
se-Iid.  The  Nayahos  hold  the  place  in  great  reverence,  say- 
ing a  prayer  to  it  before  they  will  pass  under. 

Zane  Grey,  the  novelist,  in  an  article  in  Recreation,  says : 

"  This  Rainbow  bridge  was  the  one  great  natural  phenome- 
non, the  one  grand  spectacle,  which  I  have  ever  seen  that  did 
not  at  first  give  vague  disappointment." 

"  But  this  thing  was  glorious.  It  absolutely  silenced  me.  I 
had  a  strange,  mystic  perception  that  this  rosy-hued  tremen- 
dous arch  of  stone  was  a  goal  I  had  failed  to  reach  in  some 
former  life,  but  had  now  found." 


There  and  back  in  five  days.     Distance,  300  miles,  round  trip. 

Route,  via  St.  Michaels,  Canada,  Keams  Canyon,  Polacca  and  Toreva 
to  Oraibi  and  Hotavila. 

Fare,  $150,  for  party  of  three  or  less  in  Ford  auto.  Only  light  baggage 
carried. 

Rate  includes  meals  en  route,  lodging  at  Ganado,  Keams  Canyon, 
Polacca  and  Toreva  or  Oraibi,  also  use  of  saddle  ponies  in  getting  around 
among  the  Hopi  villages  where  autos  are  not  feasible. 

NOTE  1. —  Arrangements  can  be  made  to  go  from  Oraibi  to  Flagstaff 
or  Grand  Canyon  by  auto,  party  disbanding  at  either  point.  An  extra 
charge  is  made  to  cover  expense  of  returning  outfit  to  Gallup. 

NOTE  2. —  For  the  1917  Snake  Dance  at  Wolpi  in  August,  Mr.  Hubbell 
has  special  service  and  rates.  For  those  who  wish  to  start  from  Gallup 
and  return  to  that  point  —  a  three  or  four  days1  outing  —  the  charge  is 
$75  round  trip  for  one  person,  including  meals  and  lodging  en  route. 

For  two  or  three  persona,  in  a  Ford  car,  the  expense  is  $90  for  three 
days,  or  $120  for  four  days. 

Steamboat  Canyon,  Eagle  Crag,  Teshbito  Wash  and  Jadito 
Wash  are  passed  on  the  way  to  Keams  Canyon.  At  latter 
point  is  a  U.  S.  Government  Indian  school,  maintained  for  the 
Hopi  Indians,  whose  reservation  is  carved  out  of  the  larger 
reservations  of  the  Navahos.  The  Hopi  country  can  be 
reached  from  several  stations  on  the  Santa  Fe  —  Gallup,  Ada- 
mana,  Holbrook,  Winslow  and  Flagstaff.  The  route  from 
Gallup  has  the  most  varied  scenery. 

The  Hopi  Indians  now  number  about  1,000  persons.  They 
are  a  peaceful,  kindly  folk  inhabiting  seven  "sky  cities" 
loftily  perched  on  three  mesas  projecting  into  the  Painted 
Desert.  On  the  first  mesa  are  Wolpi,  Sichumovi  and  Tewa 
(Polacca  postoffice).  On  the  second  mesa  are  Mishongnovi, 
Shipaulovi  and  Shungopavi  (Toreva  postoffice).  Oraibi  once 
was  the  only  village  on  third  mesa ;  some  of  its  former  inhabi- 
tants now  live  at  Hotaville  nearby.  Below  the  villages  are  the 
cornfields,  peach  orchards  and  gardens.  Each  has  its  own 
spring  and  its  own  shrines. 

Their  ceremonies  are  primitive  and  of  great  interest  to  the 
traveler.  The  most  celebrated  is  that  of  the  Snake  Dance, 
which  occurs  late  in  August.  The  others  include  the  Katcina 
dances,  the  winter  ceremonies,  the  Powamu  ceremony  and  the 
Flute  Dance. 

The  Hopi  women  make  the  finest  pottery  in  the  Southwest, 
while  the  men  weave  blankets  and  sashes. 
•    A  replica  of  a  Hopi  home  may  be  seen  at  Grand  Canyon, 
opposite  El  Tovar;    several  Hopi  families  regularly  live  here. 


Rainbow  Bridie,   Largest  Natural   Bridie  in  World. 
33 


Hopi  Flute  Dance  Ceremony  at  Spring. 
34 


...J 


Outings  in  Vicinity  of  Flagstaff. 


Holbrook  and  Winslow  to  Indian  Reservations. 


Flagstaff,  Ariz.  (pop.  3,500),  is  situated  in  the  heart  of  the 
San  Francisco  uplift,  6,900  feet  above  sea  level.  It  is  a  summer 
vacation  place  for  Arizonans.  The  town  has  several  big  lum- 
ber mills,  and  is  the  site  of  Lowell  Observatory,  renowned 
for  investigations  of  the  planet  Mars. 

The  San  Francisco  Peaks  lie  just  north  of  Flagstaff.  They 
are  visible  from  points  within  a  radius  of  200  miles.  There 
are  three  peaks,  which  form  one  mountain.  A  road  has  been 
built  part  way  up  Humphrey's  Peak  (alt.  12,750  ft.)  ;  the  trip 
to  summit  and  back  may  be  made  in  a  day  by  road  and  trail. 

Eight  miles  southwest  of  Flagstaff  is  Walnut  Canyon,  a 
rent  in  the  earth  several  hundred  feet  deep  and  three  miles 
long,  with  steep  terraced  walls.  Along  its  shelving  terraces, 
under  projections  of  the  strata,  are  scores  of  cliff  dwellings. 
Cemented  walls,  many  parts  of  which  still  are  intact,  divide 
the  larger  houses  into  compartments. 

Sunset  Mountain  is  16  miles  northeast  —  an  extinct  vol- 
canic cone,  rising  a  thousand  feet  and  tipped  with  reddish 
cinders  which  radiate  a  sunset  glow  —  hence  the  name ;  crater 
on  top  is  200  feet  deep  and  half  a  mile  across ;  at  its  base  are 
immense  lava  beds,  ice  caves,  where  ice  is  found  on  the  hot- 
est  summer  days ;  and  Black  Crater,  the  largest  in  Arizona. 

The  Painted  Desert  may  be  seen  from  Sunset  Mountain; 
thirty  distinct  colors  of  sand  gleam  like  an  opal  in  the  intense 
sunlight. 

Oak  Creek,  15  miles  south,  is  reached  over  a  well-traveled 
road;  accommodations  at  Lolomai  lodge.  Here  is  excellent 
trout  fishing  in  season. 

Flagstaff  also  is  point  of  departure  for  auto  trips  and  camp- 
ing trips  to  Tuba,  in  the  Navaho  country;  to  Oraibi  and 
Keams  Canyon,  on  the  Hopi  reservation,  where  the  Snake 
Dance  is  held  each  August;  and  to  Grand  Canyon  via  Grand 
View. 

Outfits  for  all  these  jaunts  may  be  secured  in  Flagstaff  at 
customary  rates. 

Lake  Mary  is  a  new  summer  resort  ten  miles  south  of  Flag- 
staff, with  good  bass  fishing  and  boating ;  $7.50  round  trip. 

Transportation  in  four-passenger  car,  Flagstaff  to  Hopi 
Villages  and  return,  costs  $25  each  person.  The  rate  to  Wal- 
nut Canyon  cliff  dwellings  is  $7.50  round  trip. 


From  Holbrook  (pop.  1,200)  conveyance  may  be  taken  to 
the  White  Mountain  Apache  country  south ;  also  to  Hopi 
reservation  north ;  and  to  Petrified  Forest. 

Regular  auto  stage  service  on  week  days,  Holbrook  to  Ft. 
Apache,  94  miles;  fare,  $8  one-way  or  $15  round-trip;  for 
exclusive  use  of  car,  at  any  time,  with  competent  chauffeur, 
the  charge  is  $15  a  day  one  person  and  $20  a  day  two  persons. 

Fort  Apache  is  in  the  White  Mountains,  a  land  of  clear 
streams,  pines,  meadows  and  cool  summer  climate.  Near  by 
is  White  River  Indian  school  and  agency.  This  branch  of  the 
Apaches  are  wholly  civilized;  they  weave  fine  baskets.  Some 
wild  game  is  found,  such  as  bear,  deer,  wild  turkey  and  moun- 
tain lions. 

This  reservation  is  95  miles  long  by  70  miles  wide.  Here 
have  been  gathered  the  several  western  bands,  numbering 
nearly  1,900  persons  at  White  River  agency  and  2,900  at  San 
Carlos.  Their  houses  are  of  a  low,  oval  form,  made  of  poles 
covered  with  interlaced  grasses  and  canvas. 

When  passengers  offer,  autos  are  operated  by  local  livery- 
men to  Keams  Canyon,  85  miles  northeast;  fare,  $45  round- 
trip  for  three  persons  or  less. 

Daily  auto  service  to  Petrified  Forest,  18  miles  southeast. 
Fare,  $10  for  party  of  four  or  less  in  one  auto. 

Holbrook  has  hotels  and  livery  service.  Inquire  of  A.  T.  & 
S.  F.  local  agent  for  further  details. 

NOTE.—  On  occasion  of  Hopi  Snake  Dance,  in  August, 
special  rates  are  made  by  auto  or  teams  for  all-expense  parties. 


Winslow,  Arizona,  is  a  Santa  Fe  division  headquarters,  with 
Fred  Harvey  station  hotel. 

Autos  or  teams  may  be  obtained  from  local  liverymen  for 
trips  north  to  Hopi  reservation,  at  customary  rates  for  such 
service.  Arrange  in  advance  through  local  Santa  Fe  agent. 

At  time  of  Hopi  Snake  Dance  special  accommodations  are 
provided  and  special  rates  are  made  which  include  all  expenses. 
The  way  leads  almost  due  north,  across  Little  Colorado  River 
and  Painted  Desert  to  Polacca  and  Keams  Canyon.  The  Hopi 
buttes  are  a  distinctive  feature  of  this  route. 


San  Francisco  Peak*,  Near  Flagitaff. 
35 


Chief  Al-che-.ay  and  Family,  White  Mtn.  Apache. 
36 


On  Rim  of  Grand  Canyon  at  El  Tovar. 


Grand  Canyon  to  Navaho  and  Hopi  Reservations. 

El  Tovar  transportation  department,  at  Grand  Canyon,  Ari- 
zona, is  a  part  of  the  Fred  Harvey  system,  and  is  under  man- 
agement of  Mr.  Walter  Hubbell. 

It  is  fully  equipped  to  care  for  camping  parties  almost  any- 
where in  the  Grand  Canyon  region.  The  animals  and  teams 
are  suited  to  the  country;  the  guides  are  trustworthy  and 
capable.  Everything  is  done  that  contributes  to  comfort  and 
safety. 

Most  of  the  camping  trips  are  for  a  period  of  about  three 
days  —  either  along  the  inner  Canyon  plateau,  just  above  the 
Colorado  River;  or  in  the  pine  forest  rimming  the  great 
gorge ;  or  to  Havasupai  Indian  village,  deep  down  in  Cataract 
Canyon. 

One  of  the  most  popular  long-distance  trips  is  to  the  Navaho 
and  Hopi  reservations,  across  the  Painted  Desert,  with  its 
colored  sands  and  cliffs. 

Starting  from  El  Tovar  Hotel,  the  old  Moki  Trail  is  fol- 
lowed eastward  through  Rowe's  Ranch,  and  then  on  two-thirds 
of  the  way  to  Coconino  Point,  where  a  turn  is  taken  to  the 
left.  This  trail  has  many  short  cuts.  After  crossing  Little 
Colorado  River  (a  tributary  of  the  "big"  Colorado)  the  party 
traverses  Moencopie  Wash  to  Black  Mountain,  then  bearing  to 
the  right  until  Flagstaff  Road  is  reached.  The  Flagstaff  Road 
is  followed  from  there  straight  to  Tuba  City.  This  settle- 


ment  is  a  favorite  gathering  place  for  the  Navahos  when  they 
wish  to  trade  or  have  a  dance;  here  may  be  seen  the  nomadic 
Indian  at  home,  in  all  his  blanketed  glory,  the  women  weaving 
blankets  and  the  men  fashioning  silver  ornaments.  A  few 
miles  beyond,  at  Sheepdip  Fork,  a  trail  leads  off  to  the  left 
for  Red  Lakes,  while  the  wagon  road  takes  a  different  route. 
Midway  between  Tuba  City  and  Red  Lakes  the  road  branches 
for  Oraibi,  on  the  third  mesa. 

Night  camps  usually  are  made  at  Rowe's  Ranch,  Black 
Mountain,  Tuba  City  and  Blue  Canyon  or  Trading  Post. 

Oraibi  once  was  the  largest  of  the  seven  Hopi  villages  and 
the  most  primitive ;  many  of  its  former  inhabitants  now  live 
at  the  new  village  of  Hotavila. 

This  outing  de-luxe  is  confidently  recommended  to  those 
who  wish  to  see  native  Indian  life.  The  Painted  Desert  also 
has  much  charm. 

Distance,  Grand  Canyon  to  Oraibi,  137  miles. 

Time  required  for  round-trip,  eleven  days,  which  allows 
one  day  at  Oraibi.  If  side  trip  is  made  to  Hotavila,  add  one 
day,  and  for  Reams  Canyon  add  two  days  —  or  say  two  weeks 
in  all. 

The  charge  is  $15  a  day  for  one  person  and  $10  a  day  for 
each  additional  person,  including  complete  pack  outfit  and 
animals,  also  services  of  guide.  Members  of  party  pay  extra 
for  their  own  provisions  and  for  horse  feed. 


In  Camp  Along  Rim  of  Grand  Canyon. 
37 


An  Inner  Canyon  Camping  Party. 
38 


PMCROFT  LIBRART 

PAPERS 


Fordinjr  White  River,   Apache   Reservation. 


Navaho  Flock  of  Sheep  at  Chinle. 


Valley  Ranch. 


Hop!  Snake  Dance  at  Oraibi. 


Burro  Alley,  Santa  Fe. 
39 


Adv.  1029.    7-5-17.    15M 


